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UN CROISSANT ORDINAIRE
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The first time I ventured out alone from my borrowed, Parisian apartment in the 10th arrondissement, without being shepherded around by Ella, my Paris dwelling daughter, who’d invited me for Christmas, was to buy fresh croissants for my breakfast. There were two types at “Delices de Faubourg Boulangerie”; the “Croissant au Beurre”, shaped like a slightly domed, elongated diamond, and the “Croissant Ordinaire”, which, in my opinion, has the more pleasing circular, crab shape, so I bought three. I found out later though, that this “ordinary” pastry, with its culturally amusing name, was made not of butter, but of margarine!
Instead of being disappointed though, I decided to romanticize it, as a kind of a wartime effort of sacrifice, like when sawdust was put into bread as filler, and acorns were ground up for coffee…acorns ground up for coffee. Margarine is still used today, though, for its cheaper price, longer shelf life and mass production efficiency, but, as I soon discovered, it can’t hold a candle to the more voluptuous Croissant au Beurre, which I now craved. So much so that I imagine meeting my black-market connection, Jean Luc, on the sly, outside the Gare de l’Est, under cover of darkness to make a deal for my so-thin-that-it-broke, gold wedding band from my failed marriage, in exchange for three big, warm, buttery croissants, which I drop surreptitiously into a burlap bag labeled, “Acorns”.
But I shake this image from my head, as the three Croissants Ordinaire and I head back to the apartment, me mentally checking my papers, squirreled away on my person – passport, apartment keys, wallet, phone, my hard-won transit pass. I had become very panicky about losing these or being pickpocketed, feeling a bit like a refugee with all the overwhelming fears and indignities that go along with that now. Of course this couldn’t be further from the truth. I was a legal visitor with an American passport (which is always having to say you’re sorry), cared for by my half-French daughter, with her thoughtfulness and dual citizenship, bilingual super power. I had enough rudimentary French to get by. I’m elderly, but tall with good posture, and warm hands, apparently, and try to give purposefulness to my long strides, as I raise the access key fob to the wooden doors and enter the courtyard of 20 Rue du Terrage.
Due to a head cold I’d contracted on the plane, my palette was less discerning – not exactly ideal when in a gastronomic mecca like Paris. So, after heating up a croissant, adding some actual butter, and a schmear of raspberry jam, then sipping the strong coffee I’d made in an Italian Espresso “Moka Pot”, and managed to brew properly on a convection stove, which I’d never used before. I savored my resourcefulness and my solitude. This feeling was slowly becoming less rare for me in Paris. Because, though Paris was pleasing to me, I was not always pleased with myself in Paris. I am not an easy traveler, what with the plane trip, the foreign language, the money, the changing technology, the political scene, the estranged husband, the odd toilets – and having to adapt/pivot/recalculate fast, like Siri – all at age 75, which, by the way, in my country, is when you can be excused from jury duty…forever!
Or, maybe, I’m just like one of those fantastic local wines that don’t necessarily travel well. I’m cool in my milieu, but buy me an international ticket outta here, and I fumble and panic and nobody’s happy…. but it does get better, so they say.
Wish you were here!

GAY BERETS NEAR ME
I was not exactly “a Free Man in Paris”, as the song goes, but J’ai arrivé at Charlie DeGaulle Airport! It did take 3 airport security guys to help me get my internet working, so I could phone Ella that I’d landed safely. She stops work at five, so the earliest we could meet would be 5:30. Two hours later, at 9 am, the taxi arrived at my hotel, Mama Shelter Paris East after a $100.00 cab ride from the airport in morning rush hour. At the front desk, I was reminded that check- in time was not until 3 pm. I had deduced that this small hotel chain was considered LGBTQ+ friendly, because when I told my daughter the name of the hotel which my friend, Christophe, the widower of my dead, beautiful/dancer/artist Soho loft neighbor Charles, had recommended, Ella said, “Oh we love that place…and the theatre across the street, La Fleche d’Or is where we go for karaoke night! “Definitivement?”, je me demande.
So, after dropping off my luggage, I had a comforting breakfast of croissants and café au lait mixed with hot chocolate, in the dining room and Killed time in the lobby for a while to use the internet. Then I explored the neighborhood, cold and tired in the gray, raw day, but buoyed by curiosity and the fact that I was in Paris! Upon returning to my hotel, which would not be my hotel for over 4 hours!, I was rescued by the discovery of Médiathèque Marguerite Duras, right next door; a research library with free admission and WiFi, and plenty of tables and chairs to accommodate study and note taking, plugs for computers and recharging. It was warm and light filled and I sank so gratefully into an overstuffed armchair, and opened a “Bande Desinee” (graphic novel) that had caught my eye, devoted to Alfred Hitchcock, for whom I was a lifelong fan. I would occasionally walk next door to the hotel to see if they were able to have my room ready, “even just a little sooner?”, playing up my old lady fragility, but no luck. Mama Shelter? Not this mama apparently.
Anyway, back to Mediatèque Marguerite Duras – this time, in a different room, I open a thick book on Richard Avedon with a large section on the movie, Funny Face, (a favorite of mine) with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire, where Avedon had been a visual consultant on the film and Astaire played Dick Avery, the character, based on Avedon.
At 3pm, I get to my hotel room – finally! I have not slept in I can’t remember how many hours, because I haven’t slept in however many hours it takes to do math. A pleasant, young man sees me to the room, then quickly leaves with a nod and an adequate smile. I enter into a short hallway, dimly lit on purpose I suspect, with a slightly odd designer bathroom to the right, consisting of a shallow, square sink next to a hose-yourself-off open shower area with no curtain or door – très moderne! The bedroom is at the end with a window ahead, and it feels clean and safe. However, when I turn right to face the bed, each of the two small lamps on either side of the headboard, have a cartoon mask strapped onto the lampshade, both faces shining in a slightly garish, horror movie kind of way; Daffy Duck on the left and Spiderman on the right. Now, I have no particular attachment to Spiderman, but Daffy is another story. Not this frozen, glowing duck face, which conveys none of the despicably vengeful, preposterously scheming, ill-fated, bitter optimist/sucker, that I’d come to know, love and identify with. But…okay I can handle it. I turned the masks to face the wall so I can’t see them, nor they me. But really, one has to wonder, “Why, instead of flowers or chocolates on the pillow, cartoon masks, strapped to reading lamps each above a chocolate-free pillow, along a mirrored wall, next to the bed? “Hoo boy”, I whisper to myself, in case someone’s listening, “I guess those gay guys can be a bit odd sometimes”.
I check to see if the TV is working and notice one of the menu options is an “LGBTQ+ friendly” channel. I think okay, let’s maybe gain some insight here. The first image to come up is two women, just standing there playfully innocent, probably in plaid shirts, wearing those very same masks, which you can now purchase downstairs at the reception desk. So much for my gender pigeon-holing. Suddenly it is 5:30 and the daughter I haven’t seen in an entire year, is texting me that she is in the lobby. I am so excited to see Ella…as well as to get her take, on those masks.
Wish you were here.


Miracle on the Rue Jean Dolent
My daughter put me on the metro at Gare De L’Est, repeating the name of the stop where I would need to get off, which I’ve since forgotten. I’d been invited to dinner by the youngest sister of my ex-husband. I hadn’t seen Gaëlle in over 15 years and was somewhat anxious about the meeting. Although her brother and I have been separated for over two years, we’re not actually divorced, so she is still technically my “sister-in-law”. Also in attendance would be her 30-something son, Lully, a musician, who is handsome and sweet, and the last of my husband’s family to visit us, a year or so before the break-up. I wonder if he witnessed any fraying of the marriage.
His uncle to his aunt: “You really need to grow up! “
His aunt to his uncle: “Fuck You.”
Plus, Gaëlle’s younger son, Aimé, a 20-something wrestler/dance-choreographer in Brussels, would be there as well. I had only known Aimé in the years before he’d transitioned. So, my curiosity to see all of them was ultimately stronger than my apprehension.
I got off at the correct stop and figured I would ask for directions in my okay French. I head right to the news agent on the corner. “Je cherche la Rue Jean Dolent?”. “Je n’ai PAS idée!” was the response. I asked a few others to no avail, until a young businessman type emerging from the metro, who, when I gave him the address, stopped, brought out his phone, entered the street name and gestured between the map and the streets ahead, saying in French, “follow this boulevard until you see the Renault dealership across the street, to the left, head there, then right after the prison, voila – La Rue Jean Delont”. “…right after the prison?” I murmur to myself.
In the meantime, I’d gotten a text from Gaëlle, saying when she tried to call me on WhatsApp, she could hear me speak, but I could not hear her. “Text me where you are.” Not sure I got out the correct answer, after all my huffing and puffing. Suddenly – there she was, gesturing wildly, from across the Place de La Renault, her short curly hair, mostly gray now, framing a welcoming face. It was an “Oh, thank god, there she is!” moment. Suddenly, it’s all fine. Now I’m just coming over for dinner, chez my belle-soeur and my French nephews in Paris, and I begin to relax, as the cocoon spins around me.
We leave the mean streets of La Santé Prison (current home of Nicolas Sarkozy), and head towards the house Gaëlle’s friend had lent her for the holidays. After a series of dark courtyards and rusty keys in locked gates, where I had to ask Siri to turn on the flashlight a couple of times so we wouldn’t fall and break a hip, we enter the house of a butterfly librarian, a true “Maison des Papillons”. Everywhere you look, there are hundreds, maybe thousands; dead, and on display, in bookcases and on shelves. You wouldn’t know you were in Paris, but rather somewhere – maybe in rural Burgundy. Collette should be bustling around with her cats and her manuscripts, or Nabokov indulging his creepy “lepidoptera” obsession, with his nets and killing jars and literary pedophilia…but in a good way.
The wingless among us, now gather in a cozy salon, to enjoy our cocktails and amuse bouches, in this case, a French version of Cheetos. As we catch up on each other’s lives and compare the political shenanigans of our respective countries (I win!), my attention wanders to the catalogued stacks of butterflies, literally walling us in. The sheer volume, the meticulous array of size, color and pattern; such stark contrast to the giant, gray, concrete block of a prison, lying in wait, just beyond this whimsical, little house. There must be a metaphor in here somewhere! “Butterflies Behind Bars”? I visualize each specimen, fully splayed out, like a perp against a wall, chloroformed, flipped over, then pinned down to cotton batting; convicts doing time. They’re not goin’ anywhere, the difference being of course, they’re dead on the outside, as well as the inside.
I recently learned, though of a prison in Washington State, which has a program for inmates to rescue and propagate endangered butterflies, in order to increase their numbers. It’s such an incongruously positive, but practical, hopeful thing. The butterfly is a symbol of transformation and metamorphosis. Yet, I, with my glass half empty, think of that metaphor for nerves; “having butterflies in your stomach”. I know the fluttering of these creatures is all about propulsion, not angst, but now the two are linked in my mind. Transformation is exhausting and nerve racking. The apprehension increases. My imaginary wings beat more frantically. My mouth is dry. The butterflies in my stomach don’t exactly lead the charge towards growth and renewal…or do they? But these butterflies are dead, they’re dead, man…or are they?
I pull out one of the frames to look more closely at the dozen or so insects arranged in rows, and wonder how they manage all those sluggish, constricting phases they have to go through. How do they feel, finally emerging as something profoundly opposite, flashy and ethereal? And when they die, what happens to that spirit, {if there is one,} that had guided the meticulous architecture of those cocoons?
While the others are busy in the kitchen, I stare down at one specimen – a female, Blue Morpho, the label reads; the wings, a soft iridescent blue, like slubbed silk, edged in black, the lining, a brown and cream paisley/camouflage pattern. Her head and face are at odds though, with the outfit; the ridiculously long, nectar-sucking proboscis and the bulging sci-fi eyeballs, a reminder of her lowly beginnings and dystopian future. She’s like one of those gnarled, old, grand dames in queenly robes before plastic surgery was invented. And then, from her place in the middle of the cotton batting, this shimmering papillon puffs up slightly and begins to speak:
“Hello. Who are you? Are we filming? I was told I was going to an audition for Lord of the Rings, then they ushered me inside a quote/unquote “relaxing chamber”; some foul-smelling glass jar to wait for them to call my number. Then nothing…for like an eternity. I fell asleep. And even died a little. And now you call me? Could you at least remove these damn pins? “Ouch!” I must look like death warmed over. I’m starving! You don’t have any rotting fruit on you, by chance?”
I am struck dumb, mesmerized, then so startled, that my now empty wine glass topples onto the rug. Luckily it doesn’t break, but by the time I retrieve it and turn back to my talking butterfly, she’s back, pinned to her spot; flat, silent and lifeless once again.
“À table!” is called from the kitchen and I join the others in the dining room for baked salmon and roasted squash. We eat and we chat and I look around the table at my salvaged French family. We’re all altered to varying degrees by age and experience, love and loss. As we finish the tarte tatin, I chew on the notion that each one of us is on our own journey of transformation, striving towards a kind of…a kind of…“ZZZ!”, my self-editing, jokey snores of boredom at my own words rescue me, before I can trivialize something miraculous.
“Pardon? Quest-ce que tu dis?”
“Oh nothing. I should go. Can you call me an Uber?”
“I’ll do it”, Lully offers. “Bolt is better, though – cheaper”.
Perfect. Parfait!
So, back to the 10th arrondisement, through the big, heavy, wooden doors, a set of gates into an empty courtyard through another door to the foyer of another building, then in the elevator, up to the 4th floor, where a big iron key unlocks the clean, well-lighted apartment, and I am safe in my Parisian cocoon.
Wish you were here.













































